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Here are some instructions for constructing a basic circle skirt including information on how to figure required yardage. Here's what you will need to make this skirt:

Several Full Skirts Layered

• Fabric
• Double Fold Wide Seam Binding or other binding for hipband
• Matching thread
• Trim
• Heavy elastic or cotton cord for hipband
• Muslin fabric for making a mock up

And

3) If your fabric is washable - pre-wash it to remove any shrinkage before you cut.

Basic Design

Full Skirt 1 1/2 Circles Front Panel: one 1/2 circle panel Back Panel: two 1/2 circle panels

Scant Skirt 3/4 Circle Front Panel: one 1/4 circle panel Back Panel: one 1/2 circle panel or two 1/4 circle panels

Depending on your fabric, you may want fuller or less full sections. You can use as many 1/4 or 1/2 circle panels as you like, I typically make skirts that are 1 1/2 circles (like the full skirt) but for very sheer or light fabrics I may make as much as 3 full circles:

• Front Panel: Two 1/2 circle panels (1 full circle)
• Back Panel: Four 1/2 circle panels (2 full circles)

If your fabric is very narrow, or has a bias grain you want to preserve, you may want to work with all 1/4 circle panels instead of 1/2 circles.

Once you've figured out how many 1/4 circle and/or 1/2 circle panels you need, we can go on to the next step.

Panel Dimensions

Let's get your measurements:

First, take your hip measurement where you want the skirt to sit.

Now, how long do you want the skirt to be? Some dancers prefer the skirt to come only to their ankle - this way the hem does not drag on the floor once you bend your knees to dance. Other dancers prefer a longer skirt. You will need to measure the distance from your hip (at the point where you took your first measurement) to the bottom edge of the skirt (at your ankle or at the floor as you prefer.)

Now let's figure out the size of each panel. Time to do a little math...

Skirt Length

The Hip to Floor measurement represents the final length of the skirt - but we have to leave a bit of fabric for making the casing on top, or to use as the seam allowance for sewing the casing to, and also enough for a hem. For this we add 4" to the length measurement you took.

In addition, many fabrics will shift if they are cut on the bias (diagonally across the grain instead of with the direction of the weave) as is done with circle skirts. This is particularly true for loose woven fabrics such as chiffon and some silks... this is why your skirt hems end up uneven after a bit of use... the fabric has shifted along the bias. If you are using a loose woven fabric, you will want to add up to 6 more inches of length to allow for shifting. Knit fabrics, such as the liquid foil metallic fabrics, don't usually shift much. So, to calculate measurement A:

A = Hip to ankle or floor length + 4" + extra for shifting

For instance, if your measurement is 30", and you allow 4" for seams and 5" for shifting, your final measurement will be 39":

A = 30" + 4" + 5" = 39"

Hip Curve Cutout

Now let's calculate the hip curve cutout for each 1/4 circle panel. Start with your hip measurement and divide it by the number of 1/4 circles. Then add 2" for seam allowances (one seam on each side). So, to calculate hip curve cutout measurement B shown:

For instance, if your hip measurement is 36" and you are using six 1/4 circles, your final measurement will be 8".

B = (36" / 6) + 2" = 8"

If you are using 1/2 circle panels, simply divide by the number of 1/2 circles instead...

For instance, if your hip measurement is 36" and you are using three 1/2 circles, your final measurement will be 12".

Hip Cutout Gap

Now the hard part - let's figure out the hip cutout gap... that's how much you have to add to measurement A to allow for the proper hip cutout... For this we need to calculate the radius of the cutout.

Start with your hip measurement and divide it by the number of 1/4 circles. Multiply that times 2 and divide it by 3.14...

C = ((Hip Measurement / # of 1/4 circle panels) * 2 ) / 3.14

For instance, if your hip measurement is 36" and you are using six 1/4 circles (or three 1/2 circles), your final measurement will be 3.8".

C = (( 36" / 6 ) * 2 ) / 3.14 = 3.8"

...but let's call it 4" for convience...

For your final panel radius, add A and C together. From our example this would be:

A = 39"

C = 4"

A + C = 43"

For these dimensions, you will need fabric that is approximately 43" wide.

Each 1/2 circle panel will have a radius of 43" and a diameter (long side) of 86" (2 yards + 14").

Make a Pattern

To make a pattern, lay out your muslin or pattern paper on a flat surface. On the long edge of your paper/fabric, measure off the radius you calculated earlier ( A + C, in this case, 43") and make a mark. That will be the center point for your 1/2 circle. Using your long straight edge, measure out the radius distance (in this case, 43") from the center point and scribe a 1/2 circle. That is the hem edge of the pattern. Now measure from the center point again, this time using the hip cutout gap we calculated as C, (in this case 4") and mark a smaller 1/2 circle. That will be the section you cut out for your hip. Cut out the 1/2 circle panel and you have a pattern!

Fabric Layout

As long as the fabric does not have a strong one-way sheen or pattern, the 1/2 circles can be laid out alternating from side to side. These layouts are shown with the fabric opened up to a single, unfolded layer.

For narrow fabric, you can lay the 1/2 circles out this way:

For wider fabric, the 1/2 circles can overlap.

To figure out the amount of fabric you will need, take the diameter (long side of the half circle times the number of 1/2 circles:

Total = Long side of 1/2 circle panel * number of 1/2 circle panels

For our examples, using a three 1/2 circle layout, and narrow (42") fabric that does not allow for overlapping, the total yardage required would be:

If you have wide fabric, the total fabric required will be less, but how much less will depend on the witdth of the fabric and the size of your circles.

Once you have your pattern and your fabric, you can cut the panels out.

If you have more than one front or back panel, as with the full skirt, you will need to sew the panels together. Sew the straight seam where the panels abut from the waist edge down to the hem. For slippery, sheer, stretchy or very light fabrics, be sure to pin the seam before you sew it so one side doesn't creep and give you a puckery uneven seam. If your fabric is very fine, fragile or has a loose weave, you may want to oversew the seam edge with a serger or a zigzag stitch to give a sturdier seam and reduce fraying and unraveling.

Sew all back panels together, and sew all front panels together. If you do not want the skirt to have a gap all the way to the top between the front and back panels, you can close the upper section of the gap by sewing the front and back panels together part way.

Now its time to add the hipline casing. I use double-fold double-wide seam binding and open it out to it's full width, then sew it onto the hip cutout edge of the skirt. If you like, and your fabric is sturdy enough, you can just fold the skirt edge back on it's self and sew it, leaving a pocket open for the elastic, to make the casing. I usually sew the front and back sections of the skirt separately so each is on it's own hip band rather than sew them all together onto a single hip band. That way, if I want to scrunch up the front or back panel (as when I'm wearing 2 different color skirts, one over the other) I can do so, as they move separately.

Once again, I usually oversew the edge of the seam binding with a zigzag stitch to give a sturdier seam and prevent unraveling.

Next I thread either the elastic band or cotton cord through the hipband casing. I prefer cotton cord as I can tie it securely and it won't stretch and pull down if I step on the edge of my skirt, but some folks like elastic.

If you are using elastic, once it is threaded, hold the skirt to your hip, adjust the length of the elastic until you get a snug fit, then mark, cut and sew the elastic ends securely together.

If you are using cotton cord, make sure you give yourself enough cord to securely tie the skirt in place. Knot the ends of the cord solidly so it doesn't unravel.

Shift Management

Because this skirt is cut on the bias, many fabrics will shift with use. If your dancing style results in a lot of skirt movement, this will be especially true. This results in an uneven hem - as some sections get longer, and some get shorter. If possible, you want to get most of the shift out before cutting the skirt to it's final length and hemming it. There are a lot of tactics, but here's the one I use:

Scant Skirt over Harem Pants

First, clamp the skirt by the waistband in the skirt hanger and hang it for several weeks. If the skirt is washable, I will wet it down and then hang it as the added weight helps get the shift out. When possible, I hang the skirt where there is a breeze that will shift it around to help encourage the fibers to move. Periodically, while it is hanging, I take the hanger down, swish the skirt around vigorously, then hang it back up... the idea is to get the fibers to shift as much as possible. You can also take sections of the skirt and tug them so they stretch across the bias to encourage shifting.

Once you're fairly sure you have the shift out, it's time to cut the hem. I do this by putting the skirt on then standing on a chair and letting a friend cut the hem even with the edge of the chair. This does several things:

Hemming

There are lots of ideas about hemming, and what you do will depend in part on what type of fabric you are working with. Most modern sewing machines come with several attachments for making blind or rolled hems... try them out on some scraps and see what works for your fabric.

• For very fine fabrics (chiffons and silks), you can make a rolled handkerchief hem.
• For stretchy fabrics, you can stretch the edge of the fabric and zigzag the edge to give a ruffled lettuce hem.
• For woven fabrics, seam binding or stretch lace hemming binding can be applied to the edge, then it can be folded back, ironed in place and blind hemmed.
• For some fabrics, a layer of Stitch Witchery or other iron-on fabric binding can be applied to hold the hem in place.
• The raw edge can be serged or zigzagged and then blind stitched in place.
• The raw edge can be folded back and flat stitched in place giving a visible top seam.
• Some knit fabrics such as the liquid metallics do not require hemming and can be just cut to the final length.
• For some synthetic fabrics, the raw edge can be passed close to the edge of an open flame such as a candle to melt the edge of the fabric. Be careful doing this as many of these fabrics are *very* flammable and can burn very quickly. In addition, be sure to do this in a well ventilated area as they give off some noxious fumes...

Trimming the Skirt Edge

Using our example above, the final skirt length is 30", the hip cutout gap is 3.8".

1/2 panel edge = ( 30" + 4") * 3.14 = 107"

Happy Sewing!

* Costume Construction *

* Basic Harem Pants * Basic Circle Skirt *

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