Aziza Sa'id's FAQ - Costume Care

Q: How do I clean beads and sequins?

A: Z'alandra: I would try taking a scrap strand of sequins and washing them the same way you would the costume and see what happens.

A: Jennifer: I might even suggest attaching the strand [of sequins] to a scrap piece of the cloth your costume is made from, just to make sure the colors do not run on to one another! Who knows what might happen to a white satin with dark colored sequins.

A: Kareema: Washing sequins in cold or any temperature water MAY ruin them. You would certainly not put them in the washing machine! The reason is the dye on the plastic (that is what sequins are made from today - they used to be metal) may not be very stable. Of greater concern, frankly, is the backing fabric. If it is silk, or cotton, or rayon that was not preshrunk before the sequins were attached, you run the risk of shrinking that fabric and bringing on a real disaster. If you know how to do a burn test on the fibers, that would be one way to find out. Otherwise, try putting drops of water on an inside or unnoticeable spot. If you notice any shrinking of the backing fabric or a change in color in the sequins, stay away from it. You should be able to safely clean the outside of the sequins with a DAMP cloth.

[Regarding how to clean bead strands] ...this really depends on what you used to string the beads. Cotton thread could shrink and cause problems. I would not ever send a beaded anything to a regular dry cleaner. I would attempt to change the lining fabric (the most likely source of the smell), and then try an at home cold water bath. All the caveats about washing sequin fabrics will apply.

A: Donna L: Yes sequins do run in cold water--once washed a top with purple sequins and guess what--by the end of this time I had silver.

Regarding cleaning bead strands] Air them! And a bit of sunshine. Also, only wash the bra straps under the arms (where there shouldn't be too much beading or you can't see it). Also I put on my most vicious super sports underarm deodorant ant this keeps them fresh a little longer. I know one woman who 'never' washed her cabaret costumes. Some she had for 15 years!!

A: Aziza Sa'id: I use a product called Silk Wash from Winter Silks for cleaning my costumes. It seems very effective, cleans quickly and rinses out much faster than other hand-wash products like Woolite. The less time your costume spends in the wash water, the more likely you'll keep your sequin and bead color.

A: Shoshannah: Actually, I've washed costuming in a washing machine, with a sparkle georgette skirt, in the gentle cycle, with cold water (I did hang it up to dry). Hot pink plastic sequins on a hot pink skirt--it looked okay. I do, whenever washing is possible, prewash my fabrics before sewing them.

Q: Are my beads and sequins colorfast?

A: Jenny L: A tip about colourfastness of beads: Being a tight-arse with money, I spent 8 months beading a long fringe in purple. Wore it half an hour and the colour came off, revealing the silver underneath. Despite the fact I had asked for advice about suitability, the retailer wouldn't refund my money, so I ended up taking legal action (small claims [court] here, cost nothing) to no avail. In the end I found a product, Dulux spray-on water-based clear varnish, which has set the remaining colour. I sprayed it on the sequins too, which were purple and started to lose their colour as well, with my sweat (must be acid!!). The only colour loss now is in the cracks between the beads and back of the sequins where the varnish couldn't reach.

A: Aziza Sa'id: Some colors hold better than others. Pinks, purples, and fuchsia seem to be the most vulnerable to loosing their color, but others may bleed off as well. Depending on your skin - how much you sweat and how acid your skin is - the color may come completely off in one wearing.

A: Shakira: Iridescent sequins do NOT fade to silver or clear with sweat like plain colors!! And I suspect the laser [hologram] ones don't either. From my bead store owner friend at Byzantium (Columbus, OH's WONDERFUL bead store): Iridescence is put on beads by a special treatment. It will NOT sweat off (and it's likely that the color underneath might not either, because of the overlay) but it will bang or scratch off in some cases.

Many times a simple test will determine if a bead will 'bleed'. Wet your fingers and rub the beads between 'em. The infamous fuschia ones will bleed right to silver...right away. Sigh.

A: Sadira: I use spray Varathane on the bead strands. I hang them up outside on a clothesline and apply a few thin coats, letting it dry thoroughly in between. I have turquoise, red and purple all treated like this. In fact the only beads I ever have problems with are the ones I don't spray. I have very little breakage and all remain colorfast. One thing I need to warn you about, at first the beads seem very stiff but it wears off in a very short time and then they are just fine.

Q: How do I deodorize a costume?

A: Similaar: A dancer...Jeannie I believe...showed me this tip: put a tablespoon or so of baking soda in a square of fabric, tie off the fabric into a pouch and place the pouch in your bra cups when ready to store. (Remove for dancing, of course ;-) ). Jeannie stores her bra and belt in a large zip-lock bag, but the baking soda absorbs the sweat and smell from them.

A: Shoshannah: I've had good luck in taking off my sweaty bras/girdles, hanging them with plenty of space to air, and spritzing (especially the insides) them *ever* so lightly with Lysol.

If you've already tried washing your costume or replacing the lining and your costume is still too whiffy, you might try this as a last resort. It's very effective, but for non-colorfast sequins or beads you may damage or lose the color. However, if the costume is not otherwise wearable, this may rescue it: Go by the pet store and purchase an enzyme or biologic based pet stain-and-odor remover. These contain special bacteria or enzymes that eat the source of the odor right out of the fibers. It will actually remove many organic stains, like sweat and food, as well. To use this product, soak the offensive item in the fluid (dilute it a bit if you have to for volume, but the closer to full strength, the better) for 24 hours. Or you can soak it for a shorter time (an hour or so) then cover it with a damp towel to keep it from drying out - the trick is to keep it damp so the bacteria or enzymes continue to work. After 24 hours, rinse it gently and let it air dry. I've saved several costumes this way.

A: Tracy: My mother-in-law, who is also a belly dancer, mentioned that the traditional method for de-stinking one's garments was to expose them to incense smoke.

A: LibbyPar: I always leave them open to air out after use. This includes all costumes, i.e. dresses with sequins. I've washed one of those Egyptian dresses once and both sequins and dress are slightly faded. I won't risk another washing until absolutely necessary. Then there is the tried and true method used by Arab ladies--perfume! Another traditional method of improving the smell of garments in the Middle East. In fact, at women's parties in some areas the hostess provides braziers of incenses on the floor and the ladies waft their skirts over the incense.

A: Sherezzah: I toss my costume in a pillowcase with some baking soda in a sock (the sock is clean, of course, and its purpose is just to keep the baking soda from getting all over the costume). A friend of mine suggests that kitty litter (unused, of course) is also good for this purpose. I imagine anything with odor-absorbing properties (like a bar of soap) would also work.

A: Stefania: I'm now using a special product from Arm & Hammer--baking soda designed particularly to remove litter box odors. It works... I wonder if cat box baking soda might be effective in a bean bag next to odiferous belly dance bras and belts.

A: Andrea R.: Regarding airing things in sunshine, you might want to be careful with this technique. UV energy [in sunlight] is not known for being nice to fabric--especially natural fibers.

The baking soda idea is great and chemically sound, but I'd think it would be better to store [costuming] in fabric, not plastic. If put away damp, you could have problems with mold, and the baking soda wouldn't do much for that.

A: Maisun: Andromeda of Portland bought some old canvas mail bags to store her costumes in, with baking soda. It breathes and they're just the right size.

A: Amy: I work as a costumer on commercials and movies and we use a product called End Bac. It sanitizes and destinks and is ok for fabric. Try your costume shops or sports shops to find it.

Q: Can I dry clean my costumes?

A: Z'alandra: As to dry cleaners, look for one that specializes in wedding dresses and ask for references. They should be happy to provide them.

A: Kareema: If you want to try a dry cleaner [for sequined, beaded, etc. costuming], contact your local Antique store and ask where they have their fabrics cleaned (vintage clothing, drapes, etc.). The issue with dry cleaning is the very harsh chemicals that are used. Water usually is much safer... I have a book on vintage clothing...which talks about the specific chemicals used in dry cleaning and which are the most gentle... In the vintage clothing collecting world, we have a saying that applies here: Cleanliness is next to impossible.

Q: Are there other information sources on Costume Care?

A: Kareema: Singer puts out a series of sewing books. One, every human who wears clothes should own: Clothing Care and Repair. The stain removal chart in the middle of the book is worth its weight in gold. The other book is: Sewing Specialty Fabrics. I believe this is worthwhile to own even if you don't sew because it talks about sequin fabric, velvet, metallics, etc. Also, check out alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles.sewing newsgroups for more information or specific requests.

Q: How do I remove sweat or other stains?

A: Kareema: Often there is no way, via dry cleaner or anything else, to remove perspiration stains. :-( The only way to get rid of them is to replace the fabric.

A: Aziza Sa'id: If you've already tried washing or dry cleaning your costume and the stains remain, you might try this as a last resort. It's very effective, but for non-colorfast sequins, beads or fabric you may damage or lose the color. However, if the costume is not otherwise wearable, this may rescue it: Go by the pet store and purchase an enzyme or biologic based pet stain-and-odor remover. These contain special bacteria or enzymes that eat the source of the odor right out of the fibers. It will actually remove many organic stains, like sweat and food, as well. To use this product, soak the offensive item in the fluid (dilute it a bit if you have to for volume, but the closer to full strength, the better) for 24 hours. Or you can soak it for a shorter time (an hour or so) then cover it with a damp towel to keep it from drying out - the trick is to keep it damp so the bacteria or enzymes continue to work. After 24 hours, rinse it gently and let it air dry. I've saved several costumes this way.

A: Shakira: You mean 'White Wizard' won't take out sweat?? My mother swears by it... (admittedly, she has not told me she used it on vintage fabric or anything like that! It might take out color as well... I made the mistake once of making a costume from white satin. Not only does perspiration stain it, it turns into cream satin whether you like it or not. Drat.

A: Me'ira: Then there's the central Asian solution...Those central Asian coats made with tightly fitting arms have a simple solution for practicality and ease of movement... they just cut out the area under the armpit and leave it open. Practical, huh?