Q: What should I use for beading thread, and what if my beads keep flying off?

A: Jenny L.: I used quilting thread for bugle beads that dangle as a fringe on my bra, believing this was strong enough...threaded down and back (very small holes!). On Saturday, I sprayed the audience with my costume as the beads came off and flew through the air! (I used bugle beads and half inch beads so they would clink when I move...)

A: Joanne: I use quilting thread if the holes on the beads are big enough. So far the only problem I've had is the knots untying. That was before I started putting a drop of glue on each knot.

A: Z'alandra: Being a crazy someone who also makes most of her own fringe, I use a special beading thread, or you can use dental floss. After tying it off, I fray check [a product called 'Fray Check' that effectively glues the ragged edges of fabrics so they won't fray] or use jewelers cement on the end of the strand and at the point of attachment. This is a good idea for any fringe even if you buy it. I can sympathize with the feeling of all the time and effort spraying across the floor.

A: Shakira: If you're loosing beads off your costume when you dance, have a look at the beads that flew off. The problem may not be the quilting thread. Bugles, and the longer the bugle the worse this phenomenon is, look beautiful but tend to break when they hit each other. Obviously, the more they swing, the greater the chance. And, they often break unevenly, creating sharp edges. Several things you can do:

Use shorter bugles. I know, less of a nice effect and slower to string. Use different thread: I recommend Conso, a triple twist of synthetic tough stuff. H*** to get through a beading needle, but great. Some like dental floss; some hate it. Of those who like it, some prefer waxed, some unwaxed. Surgical suture is another possibility. I don't recommend using nylon fishing line; it is strong when pulled on, but prone to sideways shears. In other words, brittle. And it hangs ugly. Yech. Some argue that waxing (with beeswax) good threads such as quilting thread helps. Well...maybe. The usual problem is broken beads with sharp edges sawing their own thread in two. Wax could help as a protective layer...for awhile. Some argue that putting one rocaille between each set of bugles will decrease breakage and bead spill. Not sure of this myself, but it does make for a nicer hang and movement; not so stiff and angular. This will help a little: use 2 strands of thread to string the stuff, and when you get to the bottom, put a small rocaille bead and tie a knot around it. This is a stopgap--if the beads saw through one of the two strands, the other may hold and the bead at the bottom, which is knotted, will not let the beads above it off. Another thing is to check your source of bugles: some distributors have fewer jagged edges on their bugles. Those are the ones you want. If you love long bugle beads, put them in the places of least movement. I tend to knot between strands... Anal-retentive? Yes, but it works! I only lose one strand at a time...IF I lose any (slammed a suitcase on one once. That was the only time that costume lost beads...).

It makes beading slow, but I rarely lose beads... Now you know why all the Egyptian dancers went to those short bugles! ;-)

There are many sizes (thicknesses), colors, strengths, compositions of beading threads! What you need is a beaders' supply catalog! :-) Unisyn beads (in Ohio?) in particular was one of the first to get beading thread in various colors. It is co-owned by famous beader Virginia Blakelock (author of 'Those Bad, Bad Beads').

A: Maisun: Be careful with pre-beaded fringe intended for bridal or evening gowns. The thread isn't strong and it's not made for heavy use... Atira of Seattle sells Egyptian fringe made with heavy carpet thread she sends to the beaders herself. Very durable.

Q: How are body stockings made and how do I attach one to my costume?

A: Meg: A friend of mine had snaps on the body stocking that snapped to the bra on the inside of the bra strap. The snaps were at the top of the body stocking and the corresponding snaps just underneath the bra. She had about six snaps over the length of the costume. So simple, but I'd never have guessed it!

A: Shakira: Some have a ghawazee-coat/turkish vest-like cut below the bust then they come up over the shoulders and have sleeves. (My favorite.) But the commonest ones are like a leotard, though ending below the bust.

Some people use snaps to attach them (I never would--snaps--even heavy duty ones--can 'blow.' ;-); some put spaghetti straps, which are then covered by a vest, on them. (The ones with shoulders don't need anything.) The commonest thing is the hook part of hooks and eyes, sewn at strategic points on the bra and just hooked thru if the stocking is tough lace or fishnet or something like (nothing that is fragile or will run). Another really common thing, is to sew them right to the bra, leaving a v-shaped opening in the back center, if that's where your closure is. A zipper can also be put in there. If the bra is front closure, the opening makes a "keyhole" below the center front, which can be attractive, depending. ;-) If you sew it to your costume, obviously you can't change it; you then have a leotard with a dance bra for the top of it. Also, you want to be *sure* you get it long enough! and that it has enough stretch. Last thing you want is your body stocking pulling your bra down... <:-0

Q: What kind of bra do you build a costume bra from?

A: Andrea R: Arlene's Classic Cups, designed for the belly dancer by a belly dancer, will have your size no matter what it is--guaranteed! They're [pricey], however... She's in CA, and I saw her ad years ago in Nafisa... I have two bras made with them, and I think they're great! They are not a whole bra, just cups. You gotta build all the strappage yerself.

A: Jenny L: If you can't find a large cup on a small bra try using the next size up with a cup one size smaller than your usual size. The result may not be perfect but by the time you've reconstructed it, it should be a reasonably good fit. Might just require some strapping in grosgrain [ribbon] with size 3 hook and eye at the appropriate space. If you choose the grosgrain in an appropriate colour and cover with sequins, it doesn't look like a patch job.

A: Shadia: If you're looking for a quick fix bra, I've found that (for average sizes) the MAX bra ($9.99 at KMart) is just the trick. Buy several types of braid and fringe by the yard and machine stitch right onto the bra, through the padding and all. The straps are set far out on the shoulders and are elastic, so this might not be ideal for all of us, but since I've started wearing these every day, I find them very natural-feeling. They push up just right without releasing the breasts.

A: Maisun: Up here in Seattle we have a gal named Atira who sells really great hard cup bras especially suited to 'more curvy' dancers. She designed them herself. I'm a 34D and my partner is a 36 D/DD and we LOVE them.

A good bra for A, B and C cups (pad, pad, pad if you want to!) is the Adonna, found, I think, at JC Penney. Go to a Jantzen outlet and pick up a pair of bathing suit bra cups (the Jantzen ones are really firm! almost plastic but flexible). Stitch the suit cups to the outside of the Adonna cup and voila, a great shaped hard cup bra. Don't forget to get rid of the elastic straps attached to the bra and replace them with grosgrain ribbon (sew a casing and double some elastic in for some give). Got this idea from Tahia Alibeck. Works great.

A: Aziza Sa'id: I use the Adonna bra also, but I always separate the cups and replace the shoulder and back strap. That way I can change the angle of the cups for best effect. I like a more solid back strap and the regular bra elastic sides and back, while comfortable, just don't provide the support I need, and will stretch and rot out over time.

Also, if working with a softer bra cup like the Adonna, you may want to start with a cup larger than your usual - sometimes beading and sewing on the cup can cause it to shrink up a bit and you want to have enough coverage when you're done.

Kim: Recommended in our studio are underwire bras, firmcup, such as Lillyette and Partner's found at Mervyn's or JC Penney's department stores.

A: Z'alandra: As for the bra's, I've used fabric stiffener on a regular bra. The advantage to this is that you can make it as stiff or flexible [as you wish] by [varying] the amount of stiffener and how much you dilute it. Be sure to get a water soluble stiffener for easier clean up.

A: Shakira: The fabric stiffener on bras is a great idea. But be sure to line them after! ;-) I've actually sweated enough that both fabric stiffener and glue re-liquidized. ;-) Imagine the results...or don't ;-) ;-)

A: Tracy: I also wanted to share my tip for bra cleanliness. I use thin shoulder pads in my bras. I tack them in about 3-4 places and they absorb the sweat and keep it away from the costume. When they become worn or stinky, they're easy to remove and replace. Thicker ones can also serve as padding or shaping.

Q: Are there other information sources on Costume Construction?

A: Shoshannah: The Clotilde sewing notions catalog--call 1-800-772-2891 for a free catalog (Monday-Friday, CST, located in Wisconsin)--has both black and white Nymo beading thread (72 yd. spools, 6/pkg., $4.72 each package). Also Clair Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide, which takes fabrics from their beginnings as fiber through the process of making and caring for the projects. It's over 500 pages of valuable information.

Q: What is Assuit?

A: Jofalcon: Assuit is gorgeous stuff, it's a lace-like mesh fabric patterned with silver wire, which is wrapped around the threads and then beaten flat so the effect is of very delicate foil ribbons in the lace. Usually, but not always, the background fabric is black. Some sources claim the wire is not beaten but chewed flat, and that the Truly Authentic stuff shows toothmarks.

It's originally from the town of Assuit, about halfway up the Nile toward the Fayyum area. What I'm remembering from 'A Thousand Miles Up the Nile', published in 1863 (? or so) is that Amelia B. Edwards doesn't mention it, instead discussing the red pottery as Assuit's major industry, which could mean the fabric happens later on. But then, she thought the Ghawazee were too disgusting for a well-brought-up Englishwoman to watch, and takes pains to disassociate herself from the only shopping spree mentioned in the whole 1,000+ page book, so what does she know.

Assuit was wildly popular with the European fashion industry in the Art Deco era--that might be a lead to follow. A recent TV miniseries about a family of sisters and their dressmaking empire was illustrated on the cover of the TV schedule magazine with them all in Poiret-like assuit gowns....maybe their prop department had to do major research; maybe they'll share it with us.

A: Qadishtu: I found some assuit information in 'The Bellydancers Folkloric Costume' by Rebecca Long. She states that assuit dates from ancient times (although she is not specific), and is known by a few names. The Copts called it Tillis, and the Egyptians called it Tulle bi Telli (Net with metal), and the dresses made from it Tule (pronounced 'tulley'). We Americans call it Assuit (spellings vary) after the town in Egypt that makes it. It is still being made, by the way, although in small quantities of lower quality.

Each metal stitch is formed into a knot that is cut and pounded flat (she doesn't mention any teeth!). The designs are usually geometric patterns or animal forms.

One interesting point is that the strips of metal are not actually silver, they are fine copper or brass wire plated with chrome. Long says to notice that the assuit does not tarnish as silver does. Long even includes some tips on how to create your own 'fairly realistic' assuit using knit net and silver metallic thread!

Q: What type of fabric and shape works best for veils?

A: Cheryl: If you like silk, use the more inexpensive silk lining material (usually called 'China Silk'). It's better if you wash it--it gets softer and softer and has a nice weight to it. Here in Boston we often get it on sale for oh, say $10 a yard, so that you can have a nice silk veil for $30. The way that they can flutter is oh so wonderful--and it feels nice next to your skin :-)

A: Shakira: Each type of veil is good for a particular style--silk does certain things well, other things it collapses on. With silk, I like rectangular, lots of yardage. Other fabrics do other things well...

A: Z'alandra: Another type of fabric that moves almost as exactly like silk is pearlized chiffon. I know that Gaylene in Wilsonville, OR carries it and it's about $10 a yard...she does sell mail-order.