Straight edge 45" or longer
• Pins
• Tape measure
• Calculator
• Scissors

I highly recommend you:

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2) Once you have the dimensions worked out, you make a paper pattern that you can use in the future so you don't have to recalculate every time.

First you need to decide which style of harem pants you are going to make. There are 3 basic styles, although you can certainly improvise and create your own variation on this theme...

Basic Design

Inside Seam

Open Outside Seam

Pants with Cuffs (inside seam shown)

Depending on your fabric, you may want fuller or more narrow pants. You can use as much width as you like. I typically make pants that are very full if I am using the inside seam style, and much less full if I'm using the outside open seam style.

Once you've decided on a style, we can go on to the next step.

Panel Width

First, take your hip measurement where you want the pants to sit.

You may adjust this width to suit your own preference to use any width between the narrowest measurement (above) and the full width of the fabric.

As an example, let's say we're doing narrow harem pants with an inside seam and your hip measurement is 40".

Leg width = (40" * 0.75 ) + 3" = 33"

How Long do you want the pants to be? Measure the distance from your hip to your ankle and add 8" for drape and seam allowances. You may adjust the 8" to give more or less drape. The measurement would be:

Crotch Depth = Crotch Depth Measurement + 3"

As an example, lets say your crotch depth is 7"

Now let's figure out the crotch curve relief. For inside seam pants, this is the distance the crotch cutout will come in from the center and is roughly 1/8th of your hip measurement. If you like a bit more room in the seat of the harem pants, you can increase this slightly for the crotch cutout on the back side of the panel. To calculate the Crotch Curve Relief, divide your hip measurement by 8:

Make a Pattern

To make a pattern, lay out your muslin or pattern paper on a flat surface. Mark out the pattern using the measurements and layout shown above. You can layout the pattern for either an inside or outside seam layout. Cut out the panel and you have a pattern!

Fabric Layout

Your layout is going to depend on a number of things:

• What the width of the fabric is
• How wide the pattern is
• If the fabric has a border edge pattern
• If the fabric has a one-way sheen

Normally, the harem pants should be cut out with the long direction of the pants matching the long direction of the fabric. For some layouts, the fabric can be folded lengthwise and the pieces cut on the fold. For inside seam harem pants, the layout would look like this:

.

For outside seam harem pants, the layout would look like this:

Cuffs can be cut out of the fabric scraps, provided there is enough. You may cut them laid out in either the length or width of the fabric. If you want to use the border pattern, or if there is not enough fabric left over after you cut the leg panels, you will need to allow extra fabric for the cuffs when you buy the yardage.

Calculate Yardage

To figure out the amount of fabric you will need, first decide if you can get two panels out of the fabric side-by-side, or if you are going to need to lay them out end-to-end. First measure the width of your fabric. For our example, we'll say the fabric is 42" wide. Then multiply the width of your panel by two:

2 Panel Width = Panel Width * 2

For our examples, our panel width was 33". Using this number our 2 panel width is:

so it's clear we can't get 2 side by side panels out of our 42" fabric. In this case, the amount of fabric you will need is:

Yardage = Panel Length * 2

Using our example length of 44", the required yardage is:

If your fabric is wide enough to get 2 side-by-side panels, your required yardage would be:

Yardage = Panel Length

Using our example length of 44", the required yardage is:

To sew the harem pants, First sew each leg seam, then sew the two legs together at the crotch seam. Sometimes it is easier to sew the crotch seams first and then sew the leg seams afterwards.

You will probably want to oversew the seam edges with a zigzag stitch or using a serger to give a sturdier seam and prevent the fabric from unraveling.

If you are making outside seam pants and want to leave a section of the seam open, you will probably want to hem the open area.

If you are adding cuffs, you should leave the bottom 2-4" of the leg seam open to attach the cuff and leave enough room to get your foot through the cuff opening. This opening should be hemmed to prevent unraveling.

Now its time to add the hipline casing. I use double-fold double-wide seam binding and open it out to it's full width, then sew it onto the hip cutout edge of the harem pants. If you like, and your fabric is sturdy enough, you can just fold the pants edge back on it's self and sew it, leaving a pocket open for the elastic, to make the casing. If you are planning to do this, you may want to allow some extra fabric for the casing by adding 2" to the crotch depth before you cut the fabric.

Next I thread either the elastic band or cotton cord through the hipband casing. I prefer cotton cord as I can tie it securely and it won't stretch and pull down if I step on the edge of my pants, but some folks like elastic.

If you are using elastic, once it is threaded, step into the pants, hold them to your hip, adjust the length of the elastic until you get a snug fit, then mark, cut and sew the elastic ends securely together.

If you are using cotton cord, make sure you give yourself enough cord to securely tie the pants in place. Knot the ends of the cord solidly so it doesn't unravel.

Cuffs and Ankle Casings

If you are using simple casings for the ankles, create the casing in the same was as for the hipband.

If you are applying cuffs, sew the cuffs this way:

Each cuff is made up of 2 of the cut cuff pieces. If you are using iron-on interfacing, press it onto the wrong side of each cuff section, otherwise sew the interfacing to the back of the fabric. Interfacing may be used on one of layer for each side, or on both layers for added stiffness.

Fold down the long edge of one of the cuff panels and press this fold into place. Line this panel up right sides facing with a second panel and stitch 3 sides as shown. The seam may be zigzagged or serged if the fabric is fine or likely to unravel (as with Tissue Lame). Clip the corners of the seams off to reduce the bulk, if desired, then turn the cuff right side out.

Gather the hem of the pant leg until it is one inch shorter than the open edge of the cuff. Pin the gathered edge to the cuff, right sides facing. Be sure to leave one inch of cuff open to allow for the cuff to overlap itself and leave room for hooks or snaps. When you do this, make sure you have the overlap correctly positioned so it will overlap the correct direction when completed. Sew the cuff to the gathered pant leg, leaving the folded edge of the cuff free. Turn the seam inside the open edge of the cuff and blind stitch the folded edge of the cuff over the seam. Sew hooks, snaps or Velcro on the cuff to create the cuff closure.

Happy Sewing!